SS26
Photography OTTO FENN
Styling MARIA GRECO
Text KARL RIETMULLER
Styling MARIA GRECO
Model SANNA LARENTIA
There is something in the way light falls across a collarbone at midmorning that reveals the true character of a fabric. This is where the collection begins — not with a sketch or a mood board, but with the simple observation of cloth against skin in natural light. The result is a wardrobe built on intimacy, on the understanding that the garments are those that feel like they have always belonged to you.
The palette draws from the quieter hours of the day: pale dawn greys, the warm ivory of afternoon sun on linen curtains, a deep umber that arrives only after the last light has gone. Each shade was developed through months of wash trials and garment-dye experiments until it achieved the softness of something already loved.
A Sense of Place
The atelier occupies the upper floor of a converted warehouse in Södermalm, its tall arched windows facing a quiet courtyard where birch trees filter the northern light. Inside, the atmosphere is meditative. Fabric swatches hang from brass clips along a steel rail, arranged not by colour but by weight and hand. A single dress form stands near the window, pinned with an unfinished silk slip whose hem is still marked in tailor's chalk.
T
What does permanence mean to you in fashion?
CR
It means making something that someone wants to keep. Not because it's precious or rare, but because it becomes part of how they move through the world. That's the hardest thing to achieve, actually. It requires a kind of selflessness in the design.
T
Selflessness?
CR
You have to let go of your ego. The garment should serve the person wearing it, not the other way around.
T
And how do you measure success?
CR
When someone forgets they're wearing it.
T
That's beautiful.
Outside the window the light has changed, turning the courtyard from silver to a deep amber. The studio grows quieter as the afternoon recedes. On the cutting table, a length of washed silk waits for the morning, its surface catching the last traces of daylight.
These are clothes that ask for patience, both in their making and in their wearing. They reward attention and repay care. There is nothing here that shouts or demands.
Lina Scheynius, Morning in the studio, Stockholm, c. 2024. Private collection. Courtesy of the Scheynius Archive. © L. Scheynius.
The final pieces arrived from the workshop in Stockholm wrapped in tissue and tied with cotton ribbon. Each was pressed by hand and inspected under natural light before being approved. The process is the same whether the garment is a simple jersey top or a structured wool blazer — the same attention, the same care, the same refusal to compromise on details that most people will never notice.
It is precisely this invisible labour that gives the collection its weight. Not physical weight, but the gravity of something made with genuine conviction.
The presentation took place in a converted gallery on Kungsholmen, its whitewashed walls and polished concrete floors providing a clean counterpoint to the softness of the fabrics. Models walked slowly, deliberately, allowing the clothes to move and settle with each step.
There was no soundtrack, no theatrical lighting, no attempt to create a spectacle. The clothes were left to speak entirely for themselves, and they did.
In the end, the collection stands as a quiet argument against the relentless acceleration of the fashion calendar. It proposes that clothes can be both contemporary and timeless, that restraint is not the absence of ideas but their most refined expression.
SS26
Photography OTTO FENN
There is something in the way light falls across a collarbone at midmorning that reveals the true character of a fabric. This is where the collection begins — not with a sketch or a mood board, but with the simple observation of cloth against skin in natural light. The result is a wardrobe built on intimacy, on the understanding that the garments are those that feel like they have always belonged to you.
The palette draws from the quieter hours of the day: pale dawn greys, the warm ivory of afternoon sun on linen curtains, a deep umber that arrives only after the last light has gone. Each shade was developed through months of wash trials and garment-dye experiments until it achieved the softness of something already loved.